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61
Wedge List / oil pressure
« Last post by "peternuss" on October 22, 2019, 03:22:35 AM »
"I read in a Buick V6 race motor book the recommendation of 1psi per 100rpm

at max rpm. The oiling

systems are nearly identical to the rover".



  A race motor is different than a street motor.   Most race engines are built

with extra clearances in the journals etc.  They run extra oil pressure to

make up for the loose engine parts.  It sounds like you did everything to get

the oil pressure up, but, are running tighter engine clearances.  That's not

going to end well.   People always seem focus on high oil pressure or high oil

volume, both are important on loose race engines, not really good on street

engines.   The factory spent tons of money making specs to make these engines

live on the street.   I've never had this issue, but, I'd start by undoing

some of the stuff you did to get such extreme oil pressure, starting with the

pump mods.  I would not run the engine hotter to thin the oil because that

will only make the tight clearances you have tighter.  Fix the problem not the

symptom.  Good luck with your project.

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62
Wedge List / Re: 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick -
« Last post by Bill on October 21, 2019, 11:10:44 PM »
The relief valve is not stuck, it is adjustable.  Before rebuild I had it set

at 65psi according to my mechanical Autometer gauge.  I read in a Buick V6

race motor book the recommendation of 1psi per 100rpm at max rpm.  The oiling

systems are nearly identical to the rover.  I think I wound up running 10-30

or even 0-30 Mobil1 to get the pressure down.  I ran the snot out of that

motor.



At rebuild I did the recommended system mods plus a few.  I have a larger 9/16

pickup from a Buick 350 spaced within 1/8b to the pan bottom.  I drilled out

the pickup feed through the block.  There is a weird feature on the pickup

side of the pump in the front cover, the oil has to be sucked an extra 2b or

more up above the pickup galley to hop over the fence and get back down to the

pump.  I read some drill a small weep hole through the lower part of the fence

to allow oil to get to the gears more easily and quickly.  I drilled a 3/8b

hole believing the motor will prime faster.  I found lots of flash in the oil

filter mount casting and enlarged the rectangular feed galley.  I bought a

Mylar pump gasket kit and the cast iron optimization end plate.  I have at

least .002 clearance.  The rest of the passages in the front cover are drilled

with a little die grinder work at the intersections.



Bill

From Phone



>
63
Wedge List / Re: 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick -
« Last post by DAVID MASSEY on October 21, 2019, 08:30:13 PM »
I thought the pressure relief valve would lift between 35 and 40 PSI.B  Is it

stuck?B  Is the spring too stiff?



Dave
64
Wedge List / Re: 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick -
« Last post by Terry Merrell on October 21, 2019, 07:35:23 PM »
Many years ago as a teen, I installed one of those extended gear pump kits. I

destroyed the distributor drive gear. I believe the fix I used was changing

the relief valve spring. The kit came with a few different springs that were

color coded.



Terry in St. Louis







Sent from my iPad



>
65
Wedge List / Re: 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick -
« Last post by "John M. Sanders" on October 21, 2019, 07:19:52 PM »
What oil pump set up are you running?

Cheers

John Sanders



Sent from my iPhone



>
66
Wedge List / 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick -
« Last post by Darrell Walker on October 21, 2019, 07:10:00 PM »
Hi Bill,



Have you validated the gauge you are using?  I had a gauge on my care for a

while, and would get pretty high readings when cold (80 PSI).  Really reminded

me to keep off the gas when cold!  I run 10w40 oil, and a 180 thermostat.  But

once warmed up, it was close to the values listed in the ROM.  I would worry

about going too high on the thermostat, as the aluminum expands more than

steel with heat.  You could try 190, which was the FI spec.



-Darrell







> On Oct 21, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Bill <triplesn8s@neo.rr.com> wrote:

>

> Listers,

>

> I know these are related somewhat... I am showing way too much oil pressure

in the new engine. Even trolling along at 2300rpm shows over 70psi 'hot', and

if the temp needle is touching the right edge of the center hash mark on the

gauge is is closer to 80psi. I have a 180 degree thermostat.B  Don't want to

shear a dizzy gear. I am running Rotella 15W40 diesel oil at the moment. Is

there a guide to interpreting the dash gauge markings out there?

>

> I am thinking I should be running a 200degF thermosat to get the engine up

to proper temp. That should thin the oil a little, but likely not enough.

Stone cold @50degF it goes well of the gauge calibrations to about 100psi at a

fast idle.

>

> So I was thinking of trying some of that PennGrade Green Oil for vintage

tappet motors in 10W30. Hopefully that will get it down to reasonable. I know

I have seen posts on this topic, so if anyone has cycled through this process

with similar starting readings I would like to hear from you.B  Where did you

end up? Previously I had my bypass pressure at 65psi, so I am guessing I am on

the bypass most of the time.B  TIA!

>

> Bill

> --

> .

> Archives provided courtesy  http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org

--

.

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67
Wedge List / 3.5 V8 Too Much Oil Pressure - Oil Too Thick - Thermostat Too
« Last post by Bill on October 21, 2019, 06:54:35 PM »
Listers,



I know these are related somewhat... I am showing way too much oil

pressure in the new engine. Even trolling along at 2300rpm shows over

70psi 'hot', and if the temp needle is touching the right edge of the

center hash mark on the gauge is is closer to 80psi. I have a 180 degree

thermostat.B  Don't want to shear a dizzy gear. I am running Rotella

15W40 diesel oil at the moment. Is there a guide to interpreting the

dash gauge markings out there?



I am thinking I should be running a 200degF thermosat to get the engine

up to proper temp. That should thin the oil a little, but likely not

enough. Stone cold @50degF it goes well of the gauge calibrations to

about 100psi at a fast idle.



So I was thinking of trying some of that PennGrade Green Oil for vintage

tappet motors in 10W30. Hopefully that will get it down to reasonable. I

know I have seen posts on this topic, so if anyone has cycled through

this process with similar starting readings I would like to hear from

you.B  Where did you end up? Previously I had my bypass pressure at

65psi, so I am guessing I am on the bypass most of the time.B  TIA!



Bill

--

.

Archives provided courtesy  http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org
68
Wedge List / Re: Wedge window channels
« Last post by John Clifford on October 20, 2019, 05:47:28 PM »
Simulate experience here. Both of my cars (coupe and convertible) have the

McGregor

Seals.  No issues in 6 years.



John Clifford



Sent from JPC



>
69
Wedge List / Re: Wedge window channels
« Last post by Randall Glass on October 20, 2019, 04:07:49 PM »
Right after I got my Spider I replaced mine with the ones from MacGregor. From

what I remember they were an easy fit. Theybve been fine, in fact Ibd

completely forgotten that I had replaced them until your email!





>
70
Wedge List / Wedge window channels
« Last post by Wayne Simpson on October 20, 2019, 04:01:17 PM »
I need to replace the rubber window channels on my 1980 convertible. I

wasn't impressed with the ones I bought from TRF a few years ago and put

on a client's car. They were too loose and didn't stay in place well. Can

anyone comment on the ones from MacGregor?

Thanks,



Wayne Simpson, sent from my phone

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