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51
Wedge List / 1981 upper radiator hose F. I. needed
« Last post by Chris Hansel on August 09, 2017, 12:50:29 PM »
I understand these are NLA. Does anyone have a cross check number for

something that fixes fairly well? Car had a/c but is now removed.thanksB Chris

Hansel

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52
Wedge List / Re: driving to VTR
« Last post by Dave on August 09, 2017, 07:34:37 AM »
I will be traveling that day from St. Louis.  I don't expect to reach Dayton until about noon, however.  I was planning to overnight in western Penn so our plans may not sync up.



 



 



Dave Massey
53
Wedge List / fuel pump
« Last post by Anthony Rhodes on August 09, 2017, 05:57:43 AM »
Bruce,  I agree with Wayne's recommendations.  I replaced mine several years

ago.   For a long time before that I had trouble with cold starts after it had

not been run.  Almost always I needed to use starting fluid spray.



I thought I may have had a weak spark and refurbished the ignition system.

This helped slightly but not much



So I pulled the fuel line and had someone crank the engine.   NO FUEL gushing

out!  I bought a replacement pump from on of the big 3.  I was aware of the

potential need or lack of need for the spacer



But the lever arm was on between sizes.  It did not match my pump with or

without its spacer!   But physically the pump was otherwise nearly identical.

And the new lever arm was not nearly as well made as the original.  The

bearing surface was not well finished.



So I removed the total part of the pump and installed it on the original

bottom half of my old pump.



When I did this, I found out WHY my old pump was bad.  And why, once started,

the car seemed to run OK.    The exit valve had come completely free from its

seat!!!!!  It was just sitting there in the pump chamber rattling around.



So the pump managed to pump only by the inertia of the sucked-infinite fuel

and the fast that the exit line had less resistance to flow than the intake

line, and that the needle valves in the carbs provide some resistance to flow

too, due to a fairly small orifice.



With the new pump, the car starts well, even with SU carbs which do not have a

true "choke".



-Tony



Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine



> On Aug 9, 2017, at 2:00 AM, TR7/8 Digest

<owner-tr8-digest@mercury.lcs.mit.edu> wrote:

>

> Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 10:14:34 -0500

> From: Bruce Riley <briley022187@gmail.com>

> Subject:   fuel pump

>

> Guys,

> My Spider has been chugging a bit, at times, when I start it up.  It starts

> but I want to be proactive and take care of the issue first.  It seems like

> it is struggling to get gas so I am assuming the fuel pump is going bad.  I

> looked and it is original.  I am reading that it is easy to replace but

> seems like a knuckle scraper to me.  It is under the back carb right?

> Would it be easier to do from under the car?  Looking for comments and

> suggestions.  Also, is the one from VB a good fit?

> thanks again guys,

> Bruce

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54
Wedge List / Re: TR7/8 Digest V1 #8678
« Last post by "GREMUN@msn.com" on August 09, 2017, 01:36:01 AM »
It's not that uncommon for GM PS pulleys of that era to wobble a little.  The
pulley on my 8 wobbles a little. Find one that spins true and then replace it
on the car.
55
Wedge List / driving to VTR
« Last post by John Clifford on August 08, 2017, 11:14:05 PM »
Looking for anyone traveling to VTR from west of Dayton OH or maybe even

east of here a bit where we could travel together.  The plan is to travel

to Princeton NJ, leaving from Dayton OH on Tuesday 8/15 about 8:00am and

overnight in Harrisburg PA.,  driving in the rest of the way on Wed

morning.  Pretty much staying on I70 and PA turnpike.  Yes, boring but it

gets there.



Contact me off-line if interested.



John Clifford

--

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Archives provided courtesy  http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org
56
Wedge List / Re: fuel pump
« Last post by Wayne Simpson on August 08, 2017, 11:47:08 AM »
The fuel pump is easy to get to once you remove the air cleaner. But before

you do that, you may have noticed that you have no fuel filter. If your car is

original, that is. I believe there may be a filter screebn built into the

top of the pump. You can check this for clogging.B



Before you go to the trouble of replacing the pump, put the fuel pressure

gauge on the line between the pump and carb and check the fuel pressure while

you're driving. If it's in the 2.5-3 PSI range, your pump is working fine and

your problems lie elsewhere.B



Possibly your FASD is gummed up and sticky and isn't providing the burst of

fuel needed to get the engine started from cold.



Finally, if you do replace the pump, take note of whether your old pump has

the spacer on the base or not. If your old pump has the spacer, it is the

"long arm" pump. Compare the arm on the new pump to the old. If the new arm is

shorter, it is a "short arm" pump and does not need the spacer. If they are

the same, fit the spacer.



And do put a fuel filter in line with the pump.



Wayne



SentB fromB myB BlackBerryB 10B smartphone.

B  Original Message B
57
Wedge List / fuel pump
« Last post by Bruce Riley on August 08, 2017, 11:15:24 AM »
Guys,

My Spider has been chugging a bit, at times, when I start it up.  It starts

but I want to be proactive and take care of the issue first.  It seems like

it is struggling to get gas so I am assuming the fuel pump is going bad.  I

looked and it is original.  I am reading that it is easy to replace but

seems like a knuckle scraper to me.  It is under the back carb right?

Would it be easier to do from under the car?  Looking for comments and

suggestions.  Also, is the one from VB a good fit?

thanks again guys,

Bruce

--

.

Archives provided courtesy  http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org
58
Wedge List / Re: TR8 - power steering pump pulley removal?
« Last post by "Gary Klein" on August 08, 2017, 08:52:27 AM »
Hi Brian,

WRT the pump, I overhauled mine 2 years ago and it was an easy job, but

then, my A/C was out at the time.  I really think you will have to get the

compressor out of the way before removing the pump and then removing the

pulley.  With the pump is installed I think it will be, well, practically

impossible.  As you know it is very tight down there.

I have to agree with Ben Zwissler that it's probably not the pulley that's

bad but rather, the internal sleeve that the shaft rides in.  If you have a

ROM, page 160, just behind the shaft seal #3 and outside/around the shaft #4

is the sleeve that the shaft rides in.  I bought a seal kit to overhaul mine

and it came with a new sleeve bearing but my original was fine so I did not

replace it.  You might try a test first.  Have you taken the belt off to see

if you have any wobble on the PS shaft?  If you do, you'll need a pump.

As far as the pump goes, any GM pump of the 80's era will work.  The pump

body for the GM products and our TR8 were all the same.  The differences

were the reservoir, flow valve and pressure relief valve, items #6, #1 and

#2 in the ROM diagram.  I bought a seal kit for a 1985 Chevy Caprice with a

5.0L engine.  I had to come up with that model on the fly so that the kid

behind the counter knew what to type into his computer.  You can buy a

remanufactured pump down here for about $50 from the large part sellers. You

will just have to salvage the 3 items above from your pump before

reinstallation.

We have a Nationwide car parts seller down here called Autozone and I got my

seal kit from them and they have the tool to remove the pulley (OEM Power

Steering Pulley Puller/Installer, Part Number: 27031, $40 refundable deposit

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/power-steering-pulley-puller-installer/

oem-pulley-puller-installer-kit/2075_0_0  ).  This tool makes the pulley

removal/installation a breeze.  Be advised that a regular puller will bend

the pulley so don't go that route.

Good luck,

Gary

1980 TR8

Severn, MD
59
Wedge List / Re: TR8 - power steering pump pulley removal?
« Last post by Benjamin Zwissler on August 07, 2017, 11:54:45 AM »
The pulley is a press fit on the shaft.  If the pulley is wobbling and

squeaking you likely need new a new pump as it seems unlikely that the

pulley fit on the shaft is the problem.  There is a special tool to that

available for about $50 to R&R the pulley.  Most parts shops will also loan

out the tool for free.   The pump is a GM unit



It might be possible to R&R the pulley in the car, but you'd have to remove

the radiator to get enough room for the puller.



I think in the end you'll find it easier to R&R the pump to fix whichever

problem you have.



Ben...
60
Wedge List / Re: TR8 - power steering pump pulley removal?
« Last post by W Parris on August 07, 2017, 11:53:59 AM »
Yes.  You just need the correct pulley puller.  



Will



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