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51
Wedge List / Re: Brake booster non-return valve
« Last post by "Paul G. Edelstein" on April 11, 2019, 09:08:22 PM »
Ben,







This part plugs in to the vacuum booster similar to TR6, hose goes on the

other end.  It is not the in-line kind that TR7s have.







Thanks.







From: Benjamin Zwissler [mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com]

Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 21:04

To: Paul G. Edelstein

Cc: tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu List

Subject: Re:  Brake booster non-return valve







There are generic parts.  You just need to know the hose diameter.  I saw a

couple on Amazon, summit or even the local stores.







Ben
52
Wedge List / Re: Brake booster non-return valve
« Last post by Benjamin Zwissler on April 11, 2019, 09:05:27 PM »
There are generic parts.  You just need to know the hose diameter.  I saw a

couple on Amazon, summit or even the local stores.



Ben
53
Wedge List / Brake booster non-return valve
« Last post by "Paul G. Edelstein" on April 11, 2019, 08:40:50 PM »
Greetings, all.



The non-return valve on my TR8 brake servo/booster has stopped working -

i.e. it no longer holds the vacuum in the booster.  When I shut off the car,

I can feel the pedal get hard in a second or two.



The part number for this item is 37H8278 (from TRF and Rimmer catalogs), but

it is no longer available or no longer supplied by any of the usual sources

(TRF, Moss, Rimmer, others).  Does anyone have a source for this part, or a

workaround?



Thanks in advance.



Cheers,  Paul E.







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54
Wedge List / Re: What goes up must come down
« Last post by DAVID MASSEY on April 09, 2019, 07:31:49 AM »
First of all there is nothing wrong with the light switch since the other

light works fine.B  A problem with that switch would effect both lights in the

same manner.

There is a switch in the pod that responds to pod position and will cause the

motor to stop when it reaches full up or down.B  The light switch will power

up one of two wires depending on whether the lights are ON or OFF.B  The

switch will connect one or the other wire to the relay and the relay will then

control the motor.B  Each side has its own control in this respect since the

motors can run at different speeds so a common control would lead to a loss of

synchronization. B B  Since it goes up the motor circuit is fine and the lines

that control the relay for UP are fine.

It could be a bad switch contact or the diode in that circuit is faulty but it

might just be a dirty contact in the connector.B  As I always say (but don't

necessarily follow) check the easy stuff first.B  There are several connectors

leading to each headlight assembly.B  One is for the headlamp itself.B  One is

for the motor and the third is for the relay control circuit.B  This is a

three-pin connector with a Brown/LightGreen wire, and Blue/LightGreen wire and

a Green wire.B  Unplug this connector and plug it back in and see if that

fixes it.

Since the left pod works and since the wiring runs to the right pod first and

is daisy-chained to the left, the odds are very good the harness wiring is

good.B  Worst case scenario is you would have to replace the pod mechanism.

Good luck.



Dave
55
Wedge List / Re: What goes up must come down
« Last post by Rex Holford on April 09, 2019, 06:09:56 AM »
Hi Terry, check out my website www.tr8archive.co.uk click on Tinsey's Tips and

then on Head Lamps. There you will find a very detailed report on the head

lamps and also on fault finding. Ian has worked on TR's all his life and owns

his own garage. He also owns the prototype TR8 FHC which he completely

restored in the 1990's. I hope that this will help.



Sent from my iPad



>
56
Wedge List / Re: What goes up must come down
« Last post by kddpowercentre on April 09, 2019, 05:29:12 AM »
Have you checked the contacts in the motor?



It is a wiper motor and I think the self parking contact is used to stop

motor at each end of the light up/down operation and give opposite function.



Brian



77 TR7 4sp



77 TR7 5sp

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57
Wedge List / What goes up must come down
« Last post by buhays@mymts.net on April 08, 2019, 09:57:49 PM »
Except the right headlamp on my TR7.







I have checked the wiring and grounds. Changed out the relay, cleaned the switch. So what am I missing? It goes up very well but does not come down. The left one works perfectly.







Thanks

Terry

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58
Wedge List / Re: Car Trailer Loading Winch.
« Last post by Eldon Zacek on April 08, 2019, 10:23:42 AM »
Karl,



If the winch has a forward and reverse operation then you do not need a

cable brake. The winches are made to hold the rated loaded, forward or

reverse. Just reverse out a foot or so of cable until the car it

maintaining a constant load. So, feed out a little bit of cable then

push the car back off the trailer. As the car is pulling against the

cable, rolling off the trailer, you just need to keep feeding out the

cable with the reverse function. I do this all the time and it works fine.



Later,

Eldon
59
Wedge List / Re: Car Trailer Loading Winch.
« Last post by Mark Elbers on April 08, 2019, 10:19:29 AM »
Karl,  keep in mind that the vehicle should roll freely and you can increase

the pulling power of a winch by using snatch blocks.



See page 13 here:

https://www.of4wd.com/wp-content/uploads/WARN_Guide_to_Safe_Winching.pdf



Cheers



Mark



Sent from my mobile



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60
Wedge List / Car Trailer Loading Winch.
« Last post by Karl Schmitt on April 08, 2019, 09:42:35 AM »
Hi Wedge Guys, Thanks for your suggestions for a trailer mounted electric

winch. I will go for the next larger size @3500 lb. capacity. No sense in

tempting fate with their bottom line @2500 lb. model (Harbor Freight).



Still need to come up with a cable brake of some sort for unloading the car as

I want this to be a one man operation. One thought has been to unload with the

parking brake on, either full or partial to reduce the off load speed. Another

possibility would be to adjust the tilt of the trailer (with the built in

hitch jack), again to control the off load speed.



Karl Schmitt of St. Louis, SLTOA & The Wedge Group.

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