TR7 & TR8 Mailing List

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21
Wedge List / Re: V8 Sanden A/C
« Last post by "Paul MacDonald" on October 17, 2017, 05:07:28 PM »
Hi Ted



Do you carry a bracket for the sanden compressor and the V8?



Thanks

Paul
22
Wedge List / Re: V8 Sanden A/C
« Last post by Alan Yeo on October 17, 2017, 02:51:23 PM »
tsimportedautomotive.com have a Sanden bracket listed as ACBKTVS but no

price, may be worth asking them.



If you get an answer please post as it something I may be looking at

this winter.



Alan
23
Wedge List / V8 Sanden A/C
« Last post by "Paul MacDonald" on October 16, 2017, 12:34:47 PM »
Has anyone used a Sanden 508 A/C compressor on a rover V8? If so what

mounting bracket was used and source?



 



Thanks



Paul

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24
Wedge List / Re: Snugtop rear seal?
« Last post by Mark Elbers on October 16, 2017, 12:44:47 AM »
Brian, I think the manufacturing tolerances of the hardtops were a little

sloppy.  My thought has been for some time to remove the rubber seals and trim

the bottom edge for a more even fit,  maybe taking a little off the sides to

let the back sit down further. When I ran mine, I noticed also that it moved

about a little, resulting in a groove worn into the paint in as little as a

winter of daily driver use.



Two things Ibm looking into, are a more ridged mounting system at the rear.

I notice that Mazda Miatabs had a couple of pin mounted on the rear deck,

which mate with latches on the hard top.



Also the rear edge of the hard top is very flimsy, Perhaps reinforcing it with

a piece of angle iron may help it sit more securely on the rear deck.  A

larger flat surface would also allow a wider and softer seal, which would go

easier on the paint and provide a larger seal area.



Quick release mounts at the sides, instead of those bolt in mounting brackets

that also hinder the soft top mechanism would  a worth while upgrade.



Regards



Mark









Sent from Mail for Windows 10
25
Wedge List / Snugtop rear seal?
« Last post by Brian Lanoway on October 15, 2017, 08:45:54 PM »
Ibm wondering about the rear seal on the Snugtop hardtop that came with my

TR8.  The rear edge of the hardtop has a harder U-shaped rubber molding fitted

and glued to this rear edge.  A thicker rubber seal is then glued to this

U-shaped molding. When the hardtop is clamped down on the car, I think it sits

too high at the rear.  The net result is a horrendous amount of wind noise

coming from the gap at the angled upper rear corners of the side windows.



Does anyone on the list have a Snugtop hardtop that sits and seals well?   If

so, can you send me some photos offline of your rear seal and the gap at the

rear edge of the side windows?



Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway

1980 TR8





Sent from my Apple device.

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26
Wedge List / Re: Side marker bulb holders
« Last post by "Jim Altman" on October 15, 2017, 06:12:38 AM »
I'd be in for a couple more too.  FYI, the failure point for these is

corrosion of the contacts.  While I have two new ones, the older two work,

but are heavily corroded.





Jim Altman

jaltman636@gmail.com
27
Wedge List / Re: Side marker bulb holders
« Last post by Jack Brooks on October 15, 2017, 02:06:25 AM »
Brian, I would be in for a couple. Hopefully we can get some interest and

put together a reasonable order.



Jack
28
Wedge List / Re: recovering seats
« Last post by "David Huddleson" on October 14, 2017, 05:23:15 PM »
Well the ribbed nylon beige "CAAA" seats should be matched with plain
beige door panels and rear panels, along with chestnut carpets.
Somewhere around 1976 that started.  What's in your car Clay?

David
29
Wedge List / 1980 FI Throttle Pot
« Last post by Alan Woody on October 14, 2017, 04:52:19 PM »
Randy,



For quite a while my TR8 would run better on some days than others.  I

never could figure out why that was.  Then last year, a couple of days

before Christmas, I was barreling down the highway and it just died.  I had

a spare distributor cap in the trunk, so I put that on.  It started up and

I was able to go a few more yards before it died again.  I was able to get

it started a couple more times, and then it was just dead.  I had it towed.



I started troubleshooting it by checking for a spark with a spark tester.

I could tell right away that that was the problem - no spark.  So I tried a

new distributor cap and a new rotor (the new rotor was bad right out of the

box, BTW), and then I started looking at all the electrical connections for

the ignition.  It didn't take me long to find that one of the connectors

was very loose on the ballast resistor above the radiator.  I had to pop

that connector out of the black plastic piece in order to see that it was

loose.  I got out the needle nose pliers, crimped the connector,

reconnected it, and voila, problem solved.  It started right up.  I

confirmed that the other distributor rotor was bad right out of the box by

swapping it out.  Right after that is when I replaced my old Lucas ignition

coil with the Accel 8140 Sport Coil, and like I said, it made a big

difference.  My theory is that it was the combination of the ignition coil

getting weak and the bad connection at the ballast resistor that caused my

car to start running bad and eventually die.  So clean the connections at

your ballast resistor and make sure they're nice and tight.  I hope that

this is your problem because if it is, it is very quick, easy, and

inexpensive to fix.



Alan Woody

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30
Wedge List / Re: Side marker bulb holders
« Last post by "Brian" on October 14, 2017, 01:51:12 PM »
Happy to buy them if there is support for a group buy.

I think there are some other bits I need from Craddock for my Brother's

Range Rover....



Brian

TRDC TR8 Registrar

 England









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