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Wedge List / TR8 Schematic Diagrams
« Last post by Millard Tillette on November 04, 2018, 02:44:41 PM »

Was wondering if there is a document that identifies the symbols?





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Wedge List / Re: TR7/8 Digest V1 #8987
« Last post by "peternuss" on November 04, 2018, 11:08:52 AM »
"would be a shame to lose the lock cylinder though. They're worth about $100
with keys I'm told."

I would not destroy plastic lid or dash to save a FUBARed glove box lock.
Drill the lock cylinder out, or rather use a Dremel tool and rotary file and
grind the lock cylinder out.  Once the lock cylinder is out continue grinding
till you remove the spring in the back of the lock that holds the white
plastic piece.  If it's still stuck, just grind out everything inside the back
of the lock assembly. Stay to the center or just left of center to avoid the
roll pin that stops the turning of the cylinder.

I'll send you a lock assembly, take it to even a crummy locksmith, he should
be able to pick the lock and rekey it for $20 to your trunk lock key.  I don't
have my 81 cars here to check, but, I'm pretty sure they all take the same
glove box lock assembly.  Hell, you might get lucky and your trunk key fits
the lock I'll send you.  I think you have a one in fifteen chance or so of
that happening.
Wedge List / Re: OK, the jammed glovebox lock
« Last post by "Brian" on November 04, 2018, 03:08:56 AM »  from 2008

It took careful application of force with a narrow screwdriver in the

glovebox door gap near the latch.

The moving portion of the latch is square plastic column that is

spring-loaded in the closed latch position. There is small notch taken out

of the corner of the column. A pin on the rear of the knob mechanism that

turns when the knob is turned and this pin fits into the notch. When the

knob is turned, the pin pushes against the bottom of the notch and lowers

(and thus releases) the latch.

The pin was sheared off in the latch in my car.   Incidentally, the previous

owner of the car had never gotten the glovebox open during the entire time

that he had the car. He said that he always wondered what was in there. It

turned out to be nothing exciting. An old box of Altoids and the owners


And from another forum in 2005

The catch is ZKC478 and the lock is YKC1610, the square bit is what moves.

To trouble shoot it, if you cannot turn the square knob a quarter turn to

left or right, it is still locked.

If you can turn the knob, it has failed internally. If you can't unlock it

by turning the correct key - and note that the glovebox key is the same

shape as the boot key but not necessarily the same prescription - then there

is a problem.

If you can turn the knob but it still is locked, that may be because the rod

isn't retracting all the way - force may solve that as the bit it locks

against is circular

Forcing the lock is relatively straightforward. If you can get something to

depress the button, the door should pop out. Look again at the picture, you

need to insert something like a screwdriver down into the slot on the catch

- easy enough if you know how, I think. Otherwise, a big screwdriver ought

to be able to force the lock either into two parts or rip one or other

halves off the door or dashboard top. To repair, you'd need a new lock

and/or bracket, or glovebox door, or to repair the dashboard enough to fit

the bracket back on - easy enough to DIY.

And in reply

It worked Using my favourite bent screwdriver I managed to depress the

button far enough to open it without causing any damage to the glovebox or

dash.  With the lock out I can see it turns but does not allow the button to

drop far enough to release.

Good luck !

Brian RJ

TR8 Registrar TRDC


This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.



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Wedge List / Re: OK, the jammed glovebox lock
« Last post by tencate on November 04, 2018, 12:39:00 AM »
Now that's clever. Except the car is in Concours mode, the ECU covered with

that unobtanium grey cover and you can't get the ECU out either without having

access to the other sides of the screws holding both the cover and ECU in...

and those are INSIDE the glovebox :-/

Good idea though.

I was also hoping NOT to have to drill out the lock and, judging by how jammed

the white plunger piece seems to be, it might not get things open even once

the lock is gone. Or maybe it will... would be a shame to lose the lock

cylinder though. They're worth about $100 with keys I'm told.

Wedge List / OK, the jammed glovebox lock
« Last post by tencate on November 03, 2018, 11:54:23 PM »
I have pretty much given up on popping open the glovebox lock on the TR8. It

broke, the knob turns but no longer moves the white plunger thing, that is

stuck or jammed, and no matter how hard I try and push it down (through the

gap I created with a screwdriver and a pair of chopsticks), it will not


Cutting through the hinges to free the glovebox door will not work and I am

beginning to think I will have to destroy the door itself to get the lock out

and glovebox open. A hole saw so I can unscrew the keylock mechanism may work,


Any suggestions? A thief would simply take a crowbar and break all the plastic

in about a minute. Obviously, that is NOT the way I will do it!




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Wedge List / Re: RE: TR7/8 Digest V1 #8986
« Last post by DAVID MASSEY on November 03, 2018, 06:46:55 PM »
Word wrap problem.B  The link dropped the "l" at the end.B  It should end

with "html," not "htm."

Wedge List / RE: TR7/8 Digest V1 #8986
« Last post by Karl Schmitt on November 03, 2018, 10:25:49 AM »
Sorry, but for me the link would not work.

Thanks, Karl Schmitt

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

on behalf of TR7/8 Digest

Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 1:00:02 AM
Subject: TR7/8 Digest V1 #8986

TR7/8 Digest        Saturday, November 3 2018        Volume 01 : Number 8986

Message subjects in this digest:
 Body parts on Craigslist
Wedge List / Body parts on Craigslist
« Last post by Daniel Whitman on November 02, 2018, 11:22:27 PM »
Just noticed this listing on Craigslist in Petaluma CA.B  Body panels and

parts from a closed body shop. No interest, but someone might need these:


Daniel Whitman



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Wedge List / Re: K Frame Bushes
« Last post by Triplesn8s on October 30, 2018, 08:32:30 PM »
I think sometimes the relationship of the lower pivot points on the k frame

can be shifted relative to the shock towers.  I could not get more than

1/2-3/4 degree of negative camber evenly while increasing caster also.  The

spring top OD interferes with the tower sheetmetal.  To get more i think you

have to go to a smaller diameter spring.


Sent from my iPhone
Wedge List / Re: K Frame Bushes
« Last post by DAVID MASSEY on October 30, 2018, 08:18:59 PM »
Oh, and since the only adjustment is toe-in, which is not effected, there is

not much to go wrong.

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