1980 FI TR8 will not run

[Randy Tess]

As discussed earlier, my TR8 has just decided to be done for the year.  It

will not run.



Some video evidence:  http://www.tessfamily.com/TR8/



History:

Car ran fine all summer with over 2,000 miles on it so far

Developed a squeal in the radio tied to engine RPM last fall

Took out Delco 8215-C130 alternator to have it rebuilt in hopes of stopping

squeal.

Installed rebuilt  alternator

Car will now not run.



Symptoms:

Will start when cold but idle horrible as if missing one or more cylinders.

Need to feather throttle to keep it running.

Blows lots of blue smoke and smells as if running very rich.

Once warm it will not fire or start at all.

Car will run at very high idle (cold) with the hose to the extra air valve

disconnected, until warm. Then dies.  No smoke though



Repairs / Changes:

Initial rebuilt alternator has now been replaced with a second, new,

alternator.

New Lumenition PMA50 power amp. Tested and passed

Tested Lumenition optical sensor in distributor - passed

New Lucas coil

Cleaned all connectors on ballast resistor.

New combination relay

Swapped ECU with a Tencate rebuilt one

New NGK BPR5ES spark plugs

Cleaned AFM contacts

Added additional premium gas



I am out of ideas.



Anyone care to play internet mechanic?  I am taking notes.



Randy

--

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Archives provided courtesy  http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org

["Jim Altman"]

In front of the air filter, passenger side, inside the engine bay, there is

a knot of wires which includes wires to the ballast resistor, check and

clean contacts.  I have had failures in that location.  Check integrity of

connections on the ballast resistor, near above coil.  Check integrity of

connections at the injector ballast resistor pack, firewall, passenger side.

Check resistance value of injection engine temp sensor, engine top near

hi-speed fan switch.  If that's bad it can cause a lot of problems. I had

one of those go bad and car ran cold and not hot unless I unplugged it after

warm up.



That ought to keep you busy a while.





Jim Altman

jaltman636@gmail.com

[Bob Thomas]

David Huddleson had similar problems to what you've described with his FI

TR8 DHC, and like you, changed out many electrical parts including the

coil.  I believe he found the FI cars require a different coil than the

Carb cars and that the correct coil solved all the starting and running

issues.



The cause of your problem may be different than David's, but at this point

you don't have anything to lose by contacting him to see if he can help

with a solution.



Bob Thomas



North Augusta,

[Trevor Norris]

Cold start injector jammed open? Try disconnecting the fuel hose to it ..

block off the hose of course



Trevor

[Randy Tess]

David did send me an e-mail and the coil I purchased and installed was a Lucas Sport DLB110.  Is that correct?





Randy

[FOSmith]

The sport coil is not correct I believe it is for a non ballasted ignition .

However I still suspect your problem is high resistance in the cts circuit

making the ecu think the engine is really cold and needs extra fuel. A faulty

sensor or a bad connection will do this .

Fred



Sent from my iPhone



>

[Randy Tess]

Well, as an update.  



I switched the Coolant Temp Sensor and no change.



I pulled the cold start injector and it is not stuck open BUT



With the injector still out, I started the car.  It fired up and ran at a VERY high idle.



If I partially blocked the cold start injector hole I could modulate the idle speed.  Left open the idle would run away running near redline.



It almost seems as if there is an air intake issue.  Or lots of fuel being dumped into the engine.



I would like to switch out the AFM just to be sure.



Where can I get one?



Randy















With the hole in theplenum where the cold start injector sits, the

[Darrell Walker]

Hi Randy,



Have you checked that the flap in the AFM isnbt stuck open?  Have you

checked fuel pressure yet?  If your fuel return was blocked for some reason,

or if the regulator wasnbt working, the pressure could get really high, and

inject more fuel than the ECU expects.



I think there are some electrical tests you can make on the AFM with an ohm

meter, to make sure it isnbt too out of whack.



-Darrell



>

[Randy Tess]

Thanks!



I have checked the AFM.  I even popped the top to see what it looks like in

there.  It LOOKS free and clean and moves as expected, I guess.



I have not checked the fuel pressure yet.  I need to find a gauge to

accomplish that.  I just have vacuum gauges.



Randy

[W Parris]

Pop the top. Loosen the screws that hold on the carbon track and shift it one way. Sometimes the track is worn and really skews the reading.  







Will







>

[Randy Tess]

38 PSI when the fuel pump is running



Pressure drops as soon as I pull they key.



I think that is normalb&correct?



Randy

["Jim Altman"]

Close enough.  I think 34 is spec.  Don't have a book in front of me.

Dropping right off means the check valve in the pump leaks, but no big deal.

May make it take a moment longer cranking to start.





Jim Altman

jaltman636@gmail.com

[Jack Brooks]

Randy,







I believe the pressure should be 30 psi and it should hold pressure for hours.







MY OPINION: The pressure drop could be a failed injector and could be the issue.  The higher pressure could make it run poorly (rich) bit likely not the big issue.  







Experts?







Jack

["Jim Altman"]

36 psi is normal fuel pressure.  If the pressure drop is quick when the key is

turned off itbs the check valve, if it more slowly drifts down then an

injector might be leaking or it could still be the check valve.





Jim Altman

jaltman636@gmail.com